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Verge

While there is plenty of Japanese action on Verge’s menu, this starkly chic restaurant cannot be slotted easily into a single category. Dallas Cuddy pulls influences from Japan, France and Italy and combines them in intelligent, artful ways that steer clear of fusion confusion. The zensai moriawase entrée – delicate mouthfuls such as smoked tofu wrapped in cucumber jelly and perfectly crisp tempura garfish – is a good start, but the ideas are equally strong in dishes such as raw tuna ‘ravioli’ served with sparkling tomato consommé. Meaty dishes such as roast rack and breast of lamb with garlic and chive gnocchi show Cuddy’s lightness of touch, as do desserts such as chilled lychee and shiso soup served with mineral water and mint jelly. With a wine list as interesting as the food and service under Simon Denton that rarely misses a beat, Verge fuses all the elements in all the right ways.