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Taking its cue from the Treasury Gardens over the road, this glass box of a dining room is carpeted in grass green. The food, meanwhile, takes its aesthetic cue from Japan, though the Japanese influence on flavour and technique is less pronounced than in years past. Gently smoked ricotta is bewigged by roasted and shredded lamb breast,while barramundi fillets are fetchingly encircled by basil seeds, baby leek and chrysanthemum. Chef Dallas Cuddy enjoys weaving unexpected ingredients through his menu: wheatgrass gives pressed duck confit with melon and earthy shiitake a lift; in a dessert of melon, caramel, malt, meringue and orange blossom, though, the flavours compete. There is no vying for the attention of darkly clad staff, though, who are efficient and informed. Japan’s influence, too,extends to the fine sakes which enliven a beguiling wine list.