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WD-50

Foodies rhapsodise about the cutting-edge cooking of Wylie Dufresne at his four-year-old Lower East Side institution. Dufresne is a home-grown star who earned his stripes by exploring unchartered gastronomic terrain and by pairing unusual ingredients, such as fried quail with banana tartar and nasturtium, or langoustine with popcorn, hibiscus and endive. WD-50's raffish interior – terracotta walls and exposed beams – has a vaguely industrial vibe befitting a downtown laboratory, which, of course, it is. The experiments here recall Ferran Adrià, if he listened to The Decemberists and had lamb-chop sideburns.