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Wild Duck

Chef Andrew Holmes moves seamlessly between tradition and innovation at this Albany gem. A starter of seared scallop and creamy mushroom soup, poured at the table, is a highlight and the satisfying simplicity of lemon pudding with pistachio ice-cream upholds a reputation for great desserts. In the five-course dégustation, fall-apart beef cheek, a deconstructed sous-vide chicken dinner and confit pork roll with cornichons are regular fixtures. Flourishes that enhance the beautifully handled local produce may include a flavour-packed cauliflower crumble and cubes of spreadable pork jelly. Although the earnestly pared-back room signals a serious intent, little things let it down: namely, the unorthodox sequence of dishes and wine matches less adventurous than the cooking. Both are easily rectifiable and only minor blemishes on one of the state’s best country dinners.