Winemaker of the Year 2009 Winner: Andrew Wigan, Peter Lehmann Wines

 

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This year’s Winemaker of the Year is Andrew Wigan of Peter Lehmann in the Barossa. After graduating from Roseworthy in 1973, Wigan spent three years at Krondorf and moved to Saltram where he teamed up with Peter Lehmann. In 1979, he joined his boss’s protest at Seagram’s treatment of the Saltram growers by following him to establish Peter Lehmann. Wigan has been chief winemaker there ever since. The key to Wigan’s first golden era at this Barossa winery was winning the Jimmy Watson Trophy with its 1989 Stonewell Shiraz which put the brand on the map and helped create a demand for its reds. That ageworthy Barossa icon has been refined over the years, in particular, with the introduction of maturation in French oak from 1996. It is consistently among Australia’s finest shiraz. The red wine portfolio is very strong with the Mentor, 1885 Shiraz and Eight Songs Shiraz outstanding.

The second golden era of Wigan’s time at Peter Lehmann has seen a change in the white wines, which fellow judge Huon Hooke describes as “nothing short of revolutionary”. The refinement of the Margaret Semillon and Wigan Riesling has resulted in tremendous show success in recent times. These are now world-class whites of incomparable finesse, delicacy and subtlety that age beautifully. As well as this, the budget-priced Peter Lehmann Semillon and Eden Valley and Barossa Riesling have been significantly improved and represent extraordinary value for money.

The judges are always very aware of the importance of teamwork, especially with big company winemaking. We have been delighted to see how Wigan always shares acolades with those with whom he works: from the time when he took Peter Scholz and Leonie Lange up to receive the Jimmy Watson Trophy until now when he acknowledges the contribution to his success of Ian Hongell, Phil Lehmann, Kerry Morrison and the team at Peter Lehmann. 

One of the links that tie the two golden eras of Wigan together is his interest in viticulture. In 1989, Peter Scholz, a grapegrower and Lehmann winemaker, and Wigan started to look more closely at what was happening in the vineyard. He says that they weren’t quite sure what they were looking for but believed in the idea that wines were made in the vineyard. They looked for things that appeared to be special such as the tiny berries and jet black colours found on low-yielding, dry-grown shiraz vines. As a result of spending more time among the vines, they came to understand them better.

Wigan’s knowledge took an exponential leap following the appointment of Peter Nash as grower liaison officer in 1998 as he added technical expertise in viticulture to the mix. During the past 10 years, Wigan has spent about half of his time in the vineyard at vintage and this enables him to effectively direct picking times and decisions about where each batch will go. There’s no doubt in his mind that this has been the key to improvements in winemaking at Peter Lehmann. Although Peter Nash retired last year his place has been taken by Nigel Blieschke with whom Wigan has maintained a necessary close relationship.

Peter and Margaret Lehmann have also been the crucial part of the team with which  Wigan has worked, even during their faux retirement. When he first went to Saltram, PL was one of Australia’s most famous red winemakers and most talented show judges. He proved such a good mentor and engendered such loyalty and respect, it seemed perfectly natural for Wigan to follow him to the new company. Wigan sees the Lehmann kitchen (and the weighbridge) as the hub of the company and the place from which much of the teamwork eminates. Lehmann’s values and knowledge of wine have earned the lifetime committment of Wigan. It is for the work that he has done, especially on the white wines in recent years, that we believe Andrew Wigan is a worthy Winemaker of the Year for 2009. 

TEXT PETER FORRESTAL PHOTOGRAPHY PETER LEHMANN WINES