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Winemaker of the year 2008 finalist: Rob Bowen & Ross Pamment

When Rob Bowen began as chief winemaker at Houghton in 2003 after the company had enjoyed an unprecedented period of show success with its wines, many (myself included) believed he was on a hiding to nothing. And yet the rise in quality of the Houghton wines – across the board, but notably at the premium end – has accelerated in the past five years. A constant at Houghton over the past decade has been Ross Pamment, winner of the medal for an up-and-coming winemaker in 2001 and a talented (and taciturn) winemaker who has given Bowen strong support during his tour of duty.

Perhaps the biggest challenge for Bowen has been the need to incorporate the underperforming Goundrey and inconsistent Amberley labels into the vast (at least by West Australian standards) Houghton empire after Constellation’s takeover of Vincor in 2006. Goundrey, in particular, added a substantial vineyard portfolio and a third winery to the already sizeable Nannup and Swan facilities.

In addition to an extensive network of growers, Houghton already had substantial vineyards in the Swan, Great Southern (Frankland River and Mount Barker), Pemberton and Margaret River (Brookland Valley). In the lead-up to harvest, regional viticulturist Diane Stewart, Bowen and Pamment regularly crisscross the south-west by plane or car, interacting with winemakers and viticulturists. Teamwork and consultation is the key, although Bowen takes final responsibility. After yet another visit, one of Margaret River’s best growers shakes her head at the expense and effort involved in such monitoring. Yet the results are evident in the finished wine.

Even at this early stage, the consequent improvements in viticulture at Goundrey are obvious. Aerial photo imaging and GPS positioning influenced the team to pick the 30-year-old vines at Windy Hill in four stages, rather than one. There were some amazing differences between the samples from the east and west at the top of the hill and those from the east and west at the bottom of the hill. Simpler techniques are also used. Walking the Amberley vineyard convinced Bowen of the folly of having alternate rows of lyre and VSP trellising – the fruit from the former was sweeter and riper than the greener, more acidic grapes from the latter.

An initial look at the strong 2008 vintage shows a company in great form. The Houghton White Classic (under screwcap at last) seems vibrant, bold and tangy; the Pemberton Chardonnay slightly funky, tight, restrained and mineral; the cabernet destined for Gladstones appears powerful, concentrated, fine and balanced; and two parcels of Jack Mann show a seductive boldness and concentration, restraint and finesse that promise much.

Bowen is a senior statesman of the West Australian industry after working at Plantagenet (where he established a Mount Barker vineyard for his label, Shemarin), Capel Vale and Willow Bridge. He sees it as his responsibility to make key winemaking decisions, determinations about the styles, and keep the team focused and informed. Pamment has spent most of his working life at Houghton, where he has particular responsibilities for the company’s chardonnays and semillon sauvignon blancs, as well as the Brookland Valley wines. Their work together and with the team has played a large part in holding Houghton at the forefront of the West Australian wine industry.

WORDS PETER FORRESTAL PHOTOGRAPHY HOUGHTON

This article appeared in the June/July 2008 issue of Gourmet Traveller WINE.