Send to a friend

Print

del.icio.us this

Digg this

Yoshii

With restaurants everywhere competing to pull ever more fanciful rabbits out of increasingly embellished hats, oases such as Yoshii are a relief. The entire experience is a palate cleanser for the jaded diner, presenting a choice of restrained set menus in a tiny room of soft, neutral tones. The high point is the seasonal sushi, neat and pretty on its rice pillows (or there’s a full sushi menu, if you’re in the mood). Thin petals of milk-fed veal on a meadow of Japanese mushrooms, fennel tips and carved vegetable flowers taste like year-round spring. The wine and sake lists are lengthy: choose the matched options if your inner calm gets rocked by too many choices. The downer is the desserts: flabby quenelles of mascarpone with black sesame powder are anything but enlivened by berries and puzzling beads of flavourless agar. Skip them altogether to stretch your moment of Zen.