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Zest

Should you be holidaying in the Bay, this is the place you’ll want to eat. Then again, perhaps you’re in the Bay because of Glenn Thompson’s assured cooking. The décor in the long, thin room is rather mismatched, and the lighting is rather bright, but there’s considerably more harmony on the plate. Tender calamari rests on squid ink risotto, a delicate lemon sauce providing a pretty contrast. Venison carpaccio is richly savoury with parmesan and tiny capers; on a bed of braised lentils, briny Flinders Island lamb cuts like butter. Of course there’s wagyu, here sharing a plate with a pie, its soft pastry yielding dark shreds of oxtail. Service isn’t always on the ball but it’s pleasant. The Oz-dominant wine list isn’t extensive but is interesting. Finish on a high: floating out of the kitchen are impossibly tall meringue-like passionfruit soufflés, each with an orb of tangy raspberry sorbet – zest is as Zest does.