The finalists of the 2019 Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Awards

SOMMELIER OF THE YEAR FINALIST: EMMA FARRELLY

Managing a single venue’s wine program is hard enough. Keeping tabs on four different lists? That takes know-how and a crystal-clear idea of both restaurant and diner. Emma Farrelly, director of wine for the State Buildings, has no shortage of either skill. Whether she’s hunting big-ticket bottles for rooftop fine-diner Wildflower or choosing Italian bottlings for in-house trattoria, Post, Farrelly nails the brief every time. Smart buying choices aside, she has also brought a relaxed approach to the service side of things: catch her with pals celebrating the best of small-scale Australian winemaking at Petition, the building’s relaxed enoteca.

In short: Variety is the spice of wine.

State Buildings, cnr St Georges Tce and Barrack St, Perth, WA, statebuildings.com

SOMMELIER OF THE YEAR FINALIST: NED BROOKS

Never mind that he’s a co-owner and manager, and knows the pan-Asian menu at Paper Bird inside out: Ned Brooks is never happier than talking drinks. He’s also trodden the boards enough in his time at Moon Park and MoVida to know when his customers just want to get wet – and get wet fast – in which case, the chilled Korean tinnies or dry DOC Lambrusco will fall on the table like rain. But if you want to get into the subtleties of whether Canberra-region fiano, Tasmanian skin-contact pinot gris or Languedoc mauzac jaune is the most apt match for a kimchi and Emmenthal toastie or green tomatoes with dashi cream, Brooks brings all the smarts and none of the puffery.

In short: The drinking person’s sage somm.

Paper Bird, 46a Macleay St, Potts Point, NSW, (02) 9326 9399, paperbirdrestaurant.com

SOMMELIER OF THE YEAR FINALIST: JANE LOPES

Jane Lopes plans to create one of the greatest Victorian wine lists in the world at Attica. Not that she’s eschewing the Old World entirely but the California-born sommelier, recruited to Attica from New York’s Eleven Madison Park, is bringing an expert’s focus and an outsider’s excitement to the locally produced stuff that’s both interesting and refreshing. The fresh-eyes approach is one thing but it’s also Lopes’ communication skills and her enthusiasm for her list that works for us. Add the innovative approach she takes to serving wine – she offers some sparkling wines with or without lees and others that she has decanted hours before service – and it seems Ben Shewry has found a great match for his food.

In short: Mixing it up with the locals.

Attica, 74 Glen Eira Rd, Ripponlea, Vic, (03) 9530 0111, attica.com.au

WINE LIST OF THE YEAR FINALIST: FRANKLIN

There’s no other wine offering quite like this anywhere else in Australia. Sure, plenty of places across the country feature natural wines on their lists, but none are quite as committed as Franklin. Recognising that not every diner is as obsessed with the natural scene as he is, wine guy Forbes Appleby offers layers of engagement: a two-page list that covers all wine styles (and another page with an excellent array of drinks other than wine) with some familiar names; then, if the customer shows an interest, there are more concise lists where the hardcore pet-nats and orange wines and unicorn bottles lurk. Go with the natural flow: dive into the adventure.

In short: Natural wine heaven.

30 Argyle St, Hobart, Tas, (03) 6234 3375, franklinhobart.com.au

WINE LIST OF THE YEAR FINALIST: GERALD’S BAR

It’s just so much fun to drink here. The selections and presentation are deliciously quirky – a reflection of Gerald Diffey’s personal tastes and longtime friendships with great winemakers rather than chasing fads. What’s more, almost every bottle is listed with a glass price and customers are encouraged to select what will be offered by the glass for the rest of the evening. It’s a wonderfully friendly policy that has long made Gerald’s one of the most convivial watering holes in the country.

In short: Choose your own adventure.

386 Rathdowne St, Carlton North, Vic, (03) 9349 4748, geraldsbar.com.au

WINE LIST OF THE YEAR FINALIST: BLACKBIRD

Blackbird head sommelier Penny Grant and her team have worked hard on their list over the past couple of years: it was good before but now it sings. The very model of a modern Aussie wine list, it beams with local pride – a bold selection of native gins and cocktails; a page championing the top wines of Queensland’s Granite Belt; the latest bottles from cutting-edge producers; back vintages of classic Australian labels – but is also thoroughly international in scope, offering everything from top Champagne to obscure Italians, many by the glass, most at fair mark-ups.

In short: A model mod-Oz list.

Riverside Centre, 123 Eagle St, Brisbane, Qld, (07) 3229 1200, blackbirdbrisbane.com.au

MAÎTRE D’ OF THE YEAR FINALIST: SARAH FEEHAN

Mad geometric building design. Outrageous harlequin colour scheme. Oddball artefacts. Weaving all of the d’Arenberg Cube‘s disparate characteristics into a cohesive dining experience with the right mix of wow-factor and whimsy might daunt some, but not Sarah Feehan. Smart and assured, the 33-year-old draws on considerable experience at the top end of the trade, from running the floor at Southern Ocean Lodge on Kangaroo Island to stints at Orana, Attica, and Noma in Copenhagen, Sydney and Tulum. This has given her the skills and confidence to appear unflappable during epic four-hour Cube lunches, abetting diners through a procession of luxurious dishes while capturing a joyous spirit that this idiosyncratic destination demands.

In short: Calm inside a kaleidoscope.

d’Arenberg Cube, 8 Osborn Rd, McLaren Vale, SA, (08) 8329 4888, darenberg.com.au

MAÎTRE D’ OF THE YEAR FINALIST: MICHAEL NICOLIAN

You loved Michael Nicolian’s work at the bar upstairs at the old Porteño, but it has been at Continental, the Newtown deli-diner-drinks haunt he opened with his former employers, Joe Valore and Elvis Abrahanowicz, that he has really won your heart. Here Nicolian has a more intimate stage for his bartending prowess, but also the scope to display his gifts as a host, an admirer of cheese and canned fish and a bringer of the good times. With a gentle lisp and an even gentler manner, he puts the hospitable into hospitality, and we can’t wait to see what he does with Continental’s Sydney CBD branch, opening soon.

In short: A jack-of-all-trades who masters his craft.

Continental, 210 Australia St, Newtown, NSW, (02) 8624 3131, continentaldelicatessen.com.au

MAÎTRE D’ OF THE YEAR FINALIST: THE TEAM AT DINNER BY HESTON

Singling out one person from the service team at Heston Blumenthal’s Melbourne restaurant misses the point. The level of poise, personality and polish is a meticulously groomed group effort – from the people greeting you at the door, to those who mix and serve some of the city’s most sublime cocktails to the ones who graciously attend the well-spaced tables. It’s truly wonderful to witness, like a seamless choreography, made even better by the entire staff appearing genuinely committed to and invested in giving you the best time possible. Assured, confident and well-versed in what’s happening on the menu and wine list, this is one team worth following.

In short: Dream team.

Crown Towers, level 3, 8 Whiteman St, Southbank, Vic, (03) 9292 5777, dinnerbyheston.com.au

BAR OF THE YEAR FINALIST: JACOBY’S

We may yet see more operators in Australia jumping on the dark-tiki bandwagon, naming their bars for the Hawaiian-shirted psychiatrist from Twin Peaks, and tiling parts of their floor in a zigzag homage to the show’s Black Lodge. But for now, this radical Sydney watering hole from Pasan Wijesena of Earl’s Juke Joint has the niche all to itself. If that all sounds a bit spooky and intense: relax. The bar might be dimly lit, but quite a few of the drinks arrive in fire and the mood is perfectly upbeat. Never mind if you don’t know your David Lynch from your Don the Beachcomber: there’s no mistaking the good times on offer at Jacoby’s.

In short: A loopy concept brought to life with impressive care.

154 Enmore Rd, Enmore, NSW, jacobys-tiki-bar.com

BAR OF THE YEAR FINALIST: LIBERTÉ

Located in a Western Australian regional centre five hours south of Perth by car, this plucky bar-slash-diner is inspired rather than defined by its isolation. Ingredients from the Great Southern (pristine seafood, grown-to-spec veg) and booze (mostly supplied by renegade winemakers, brewers and distillers) star in the handiwork of chef-owner Amy Hamilton and bar manager Keryn Giles, yet the vibe is party rather than preachy. An action-packed calendar of regular events speaks to a strong sense of community; this is a local any neighbourhood would gladly claim as its own.

In short: Liberté feeding (and watering) the people.

160-162 Stirling Tce, Albany, WA, (08) 9847 4797, libertealbany.com.au

REGIONAL RESTAURANT OF THE YEAR FINALIST: LAURA

Laura is so at home in its gorgeous, view-enriched setting that it’s hard to believe it’s less than a year old. The breadth of talent in the front of house team certainly helps, as does a wine list that confidently matches Pt Leo Estate‘s own output against a collection of some of the best and most interesting small producers from across the globe. But it’s chef Phil Wood’s food that really brings the sense of belonging home. Local seafood, vegetables, cheese and meat are presented in deft, beautifully realised combinations as big on old-fashioned flavour as they are on clever technique. All this and an attention-grabbing collection of sculpture – it’s an impressive début.

In short: Strong and assured straight out of the box.

Pt Leo Estate, 3649 Frankston-Flinders Rd, Merricks, Vic, (03) 5989 9011, ptleoestate.com.au

REGIONAL RESTAURANT OF THE YEAR FINALIST: IGNI

From the thread of wood smoke in the air to the warm personable service and beautifully constructed wine list, there’s delight, elegance and sincerity to this restaurant in the backblocks of Geelong that makes it one of the country’s best dining experiences. Aaron Turner’s multi-course menus start with an impressive shower of palate-priming snacks that are followed by dishes that make the most of the region’s produce, embellished and enhanced but grounded in simplicity. One of Turner’s great talents is to feed you well over many courses, leaving you satisfied and uplifted but never stuffed. It’s the kind of complete experience that has you vowing to return before you’ve left.

In short: A masterclass in balance.

2 Ryan Pl, Geelong, Vic, (03) 5222 2266, restaurantigni.com

REGIONAL RESTAURANT OF THE YEAR FINALIST: BRAE

Dan Hunter has never been one to rest on his laurels, even those he grew himself. In fact, if the ongoing project of becoming increasingly self-sufficient is anything to go by – he’s growing his own wheat now and milling grains daily for the bread – he’s doubling down on the mission to paint a portrait of the surrounding countryside with flavour and artful plating. The dining room (designed by Six Degrees, as is the superb accommodation that should be on every food traveller’s bucket list) gets better with age, while the front of house team is a blueprint for how to get it right.

In short: A superb regional portrait.

4285 Cape Otway Rd, Birregurra, Vic, (03) 5236 2226, braerestaurant.com

BEST NEW TALENT FINALIST: ALI CURREY-VOUMARD

At age 15 Ali Currey-Voumard did a deal with Rodney Dunn, owner of The Agrarian Kitchen cooking school. She’d swap working in the school’s gardens for a cooking class. The deal was done, and she then continued working the gardens as she started her apprenticeship, forging an affinity for the locally produced. In a testament to the “get them while they’re young” approach, Currey-Voumard returned to the Agrarian fold after several years in Melbourne working for Andrew McConnell’s group and staging her own collaborations with producers, artists and winemakers. She nailed The Agrarian Kitchen Eatery brief from the start, nimbly adjusting her menus to what was being grown and produced locally, creating dishes that thrill as much with their comfort and humility as they do their wit and sparkle. And she’s just getting started.

In short: Exciting times ahead.

The Agrarian Kitchen & Eatery, Bronte Building, Willow Court, 11A The Avenue, New Norfolk, Tas; (03) 6262 0011, theagrariankitchen.com

BEST NEW TALENT FINALIST: OLIVER EDWARDS

Curiosity drives Oliver Edwards to get his hands dirty. He left Cumulus Inc to dig for vegetables on an Adelaide Hills farm, then find inventive ways to present them as star attractions at The Summertown Aristologist. Hands-on learning extends to forming a co-operative with a gang of Adelaide chefs to share ideas and knowledge about making their own smallgoods. Edwards is also a co-author for Good Fish Bad Fish, a website that explains seafood sustainability practices and buying tips. Such incisive thinking about food informs striking authenticity and integrity on the plate, capturing supreme freshness and vitality.

In short: Embracing flavour from the ground up.

The Summertown Aristologist, 1097 Greenhill Rd, Summertown, SA, 0477 410 105, thesummertownaristologist.com

BEST NEW TALENT FINALIST: LOUIS COUTTOUPES

After ditching the bureaucracy, Louis Couttoupes joined Bar Rochford in early 2016. He swiftly progressed from plongeur to chef at Rochford, the saloon named Bar of the Year in our last awards. Couttoupes has locavore street cred, bringing in seasonal produce from his own nearby plot and tapping close relationships with local organic producers. He embraces experimentation and cultural diversity, ripening plantains in the sun and serving them caramelised alongside yoghurt and chamomile flowers, and reimagining ajapsandali – a kind of ratatouille of the northern Caucasus – as a complement for burrata. His salt-and-vinegar potato galette, meanwhile, is simply God’s gift to bar snackers: layers of super crisp and tender potato splashed with vinegar and a dusting of smoky bush-tomato powder.

In short: Let’s hear it for the bold career leap.

Bar Rochford, Level 1, 65 London Circuit, Canberra, ACT, (02) 6230 6222, barrochford.com

NEW RESTAURANT OF THE YEAR FINALIST: LAURA

Laura is so at home in its gorgeous, view-enriched setting that it’s hard to believe it’s less than a year old. The breadth of talent in the front of house team certainly helps, as does a wine list that confidently matches Pt Leo Estate‘s own output against a collection of some of the best and most interesting small producers from across the globe. But it’s chef Phil Wood’s food that really brings the sense of belonging home. Local seafood, vegetables, cheese and meat are presented in deft, beautifully realised combinations as big on old-fashioned flavour as they are on clever technique. All this and an attention-grabbing collection of sculpture – it’s an impressive début.

In short: Strong and assured straight out of the box.

Pt Leo Estate, 3649 Frankston-Flinders Rd, Merricks, Vic, (03) 5989 9011, ptleoestate.com.au

NEW RESTAURANT OF THE YEAR FINALIST: ROSETTA

New Restaurant of the Year? Isn’t this just a carbon copy of a fancy trattoria Neil Perry opened in Melbourne in 2012? Not by a long shot. There are similarities of course – the broad, pan-regional sweep of the menu, the reassuring heft of the prices, the white-jacket service. But between the glamour of the room and the gutsy finesse head chef Richard Purdue and his team bring to the menu, is it just possible that this is the rare sequel that surpasses the quality of the original?

In short: The Godfather: Part II of the restaurant world.

117 Harrington St, Sydney, NSW, (02) 8099 7089, rosettarestaurant.com.au

NEW RESTAURANT OF THE YEAR FINALIST: BERT’S

Apply a dash of Slim Aarons, a good helping of beach-house chic and throw in a splash of Fantasy Island, and you’ve got one of the most glamorous restaurant fit-outs Sydney has seen in years. The luxe vibes are conjured with framed etchings and oils, caged finches and tasselled lamps against a backdrop of pastel walls and northern beaches sunshine. It’s a perfect match for Jordan Toft’s menu. Hand-picked crab with Basque spice? Coal-roasted flounder filleted tableside? Frosty Martinis and a huge wine list? What’s not to like?

In short: The king in the north.

2 Kalinya St, Newport, NSW, (02) 9114 7350, merivale.com