The location might seem, at best, inspired by a Ginza viaduct, and the kitchen team has a focus that seems almost Japanese, but with a rockin' soundtrack, there's no hushed air of kaiseki reverence, and the menu lobs from American inspiration to Australian product and back again.
Last things first: that nightingale persimmon with liquorice paper and peppers? Pretty much the perfect illustration of how contemporary technique and prime produce can bring out the best in each other.
Rockpool Bar & Grill
Word has it that much of the finance news in Australia is gathered simply by observing who's having lunch with whom at Bar & Grill on a given day, such is its hold on the nation's brokers of influence.
Tetsuya's is the perfect tonic for anyone weary of the shared plate/no bookings paradigm. From the personable, suave greeting on arrival to the meticulously maintained, Japanese-themed rooms, impeccable floor staff and creative, continent-hopping wine list, the restaurant is a masterclass in fine dining.
The new space in the Radisson Blu Hotel is drop-dead cool - two levels of oak parquetry, black scaffolding-style installations and low-hanging coloured-glass lanterns. It's a menu of brave combinations and arresting visuals...
The Bridge Room
Ross Lusted has lived it. When he reaches for yum pla duk fu to add texture to a plate of sake-cured dory dotted with finger lime, the oddly fluffy-crisp texture of the Thai fish-fry lies easily within his grasp because the cooking of Thailand is second nature to him.