The food is only part of the appeal; the lively crush of bodies yelling for picks from one of the edgiest wine lists in town gives the place permanent buzz.
Aug 22, 2019 1:05am
10 William St Paddington, Sydney, NSW
Mon-Thu 5pm-11pm Friday-Sat noon-11pm
E $6-$28 M $30-$38 D $10-$14
The drinks have always been a draw at 10 William St, and for the vine-dedicated there's the chance to get lost in a deep list of minimal-intervention wines from Italy and from people doing exciting, preservative-free things at home and further afield. But waiting in the street out front, jostling for space between the tiny tables, and swiping the seeded pretzel through the whipped bottarga dip has become as much a necessity as ordering a glass of something fresh and juicy from the chalkboard. The few signatures – that pretzel, the ragù, the tiramisu – remain on the food front, but newly installed chef Trisha Greentree, fresh from working the kitchen garden at Brae, has made a point of befriending local growers and producers, and making their produce the defining factor of her menus. Stracciatella from Vannella in Marrickville, perhaps, spread with anchovies and blackened spigarello leaves, or white corn from Boon Luck Farm under a grating of cured egg yolk and lime. Come dessert, the flan – rich without being eggy, and covered in orange and Partida Creus vermouth caramel – is a new bitter-sweet classic that's all her own. One to savour.