Rob Shaw
When the sun’s up, this is a place of Australian-Thai mashups, where flat whites accompany bowls of crab congee, pandan custard flavours croissants, and green juice is topped up with turmeric shots. Lunch might rove through Brickfields sourdough sandwiched around Thai classics (the chicken-cashew-chilli-jam number remains a staple), som dtum, and rice bowls dressed up with the likes of crab cakes or spicy eggplant. Jarern Chai, the onsite grocer, plays background to the bustle, where the shelves heave with dry goods and the coolroom is packed with Thai produce from sibling Boon Luck Farm near Byron. Come night, however, things take a turn for the Isaan, with funk and heat at the forefront. Start with guen gai yaang, gristly skewers of chicken gizzards with a dressing of fish sauce and smoked chilli and ground rice, then add a side of sticky rice to a spicy and fragrant pork-and-herb sausage to cool burning mouths and fingers (follow with house-churned gelato stuffed into a brioche bun if the fire keeps raging). Service is workmanlike, but a clipped list of natural wine and sake add even more excitement to a place that brings together the best of Sydney into one neat package. A boon for the city.
Phone:
(02) 9281 2114
Website:
Bookings:
Bookings recommended
Features:
Licensed
Vegetarian-friendly
Wheelchair access
Accepted card types:
American Express
Eftpos
MasterCard
Visa
Chefs:
Boyd Apichat, Mew Kengkit & Palisa Anderson
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Our guide gives a yearly snapshot at the best restaurants to eat at right now. The best-rated restaurants, as judged by the reviewers’ first-hand experience, form our national Top 50.
