Restaurant Guide

Botanic Gardens Restaurant: Restaurant review

The distance from garden to the plate has never been shorter than at this white pavilion in the centre of Adelaide Botanic Gardens.

Address

Plane Tree Dr
Adelaide, SA

Hours

Lunch Tue-Sun noon-3.30pm
Dinner Fri-Sat 6.30pm-9pm

Prices

3-4 courses $70-$90;
Dégustation $115

The dining experience is expertly framed by an idyllic setting at Botanic Gardens Restaurant. The quaint former tearoom in the heart of the garden, ringed by glass walls and whitewashed timber, has been modernised with blond wood tables and plush mustard-coloured low-back chairs, and the menu exercises similar poise. Paul Baker packs a lot into each dish – drawing more than 50 ingredients from the garden – yet his complex combinations show restraint, with flavours introduced with nuance rather than ostentation. Slivers of grilled squid and slices of baked pear provide lively crunch and chew with shaved pickled chestnut adding earthy notes. The bitter streak of roasted radicchio cuts through rich lamb tartare folded with lardo and quandong dukkah. Coffee-crusted kangaroo fillet is smartly teamed with smoked potato, pickled red cabbage and the vegetal bite of centella. Dishes are uniformly pretty, festooned with just-picked flowers and leaves. Garden ingredients also feature in seasonal house vermouths and beers that sit alongside an interesting list of mostly alternative wine producers. Discreet service ensures a serene scene where all is in balance, within the room and on the plate.
Phone:
(08) 8223 3526
Bookings:
Bookings recommended
Features:
  • BYO
  • Licensed
  • Bar
  • Wheelchair access
  • Impressive wine list
Accepted card types:
  • American Express
  • Eftpos
  • MasterCard
  • Visa
Chef(s):
Paul Baker
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.