Restaurant Guide

Brae: Restaurant review

Brae is Dan Hunter’s love letter to the region, written with precise, original cooking.

Address

4285 Cape Otway Rd
Birregurra, Vic

Hours

Lunch Fri-Mon, noon-2pm;
Dinner Thu-Sun, 6.30pm-8.30pm

Prices

Dégustation $275

REVIEW

Visceral, sensory and sensational, Brae warrants a pilgrimage and, ideally, an overnight stay (preferably in one of its designer suites) to appreciate founders Dan Hunter and Julianne Bagnato's dedication to regiona ldining. Set in a country-cottage gallery, the restaurant's olive-leather seats are angled to Hunter's now-famous stage, an immaculate glass-fronted kitchen where ambitious dégustations are conjured with impressive composure. The kitchen is only part of the story: a courtyard wood oven bakes sourdough bread from Hunter's first wheat crop and grills
pork jowl and abalone, skewered on twigs, to charry, caramel rapture. The property's vegetable gardens and orchards, plus chickens and bees, supply year-round produce. Minimum three hour menus transcend pretty gastronomy: "tacos" of kohlrabi-wrapped prawn head are challenging, so too a dessert ball of rhubarb and pistachio bound with pig's blood. Whimsical creations such as the iced oyster always delight, but there are many stars in this show, from lush sea urchin lobes anchored on whole-wheat "croissants" to wicked duck liver cannelloni with Davidson's plum. Everything here is a revelation, including the global wine list of producers who, like Brae, are sustainable and artisanal.
Phone:
(03) 5236 2226
Bookings:
Bookings essential
Features:
  • Licensed
  • Vegetarian-friendly
  • Wheelchair access
  • Impressive wine list
Accepted card types:
  • American Express
  • Eftpos
  • MasterCard
  • Visa
Chef:
Dan Hunter
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.