Restaurant Guide

Cirrus: Restaurant review

At Barangaroo, a dining district rife with "concepts", Cirrus stands out as a real restaurant.

Address

23 Barangaroo Ave
Barangaroo, Sydney, NSW

Hours

Lunch daily noon-3pm
Dinner daily 6pm-10pm

Prices

E $14-$42
M $40-$68
D $18;
Dégustation $110

Trust Brent Savage to serve Sydney's fanciest fish and chips. The fries are properly seasoned, the tartare sauce textbook and the handsome whole flathead – boned, barring the head and tail – is crumbed with panko, puffed rice and amaranth. And trust Nick Hildebrandt to propose a spot-on pairing from his perfectly pitched wine list – a textural, oxidative macabeu blend – and pour it from a fetching Brian Hirst decanter. When these guys commit to a theme, they really commit. At Cirrus, the duo's shrine to seafood, every detail is given its due, and the execution across the board is of the highest order. Inventive, artfully plated starters make a strong first impression (how is that seductively smoky eel custard so insanely silken?), while generous, equally faultless main courses like roasted swordfish steak crowned with sweet slivers of fennel, bottarga and toasty buckwheat play it straighter. Though just metres apart, the airy, free-flowing space feels miles away from the fast-casual frenzy that is Barangaroo, thanks in no small part to informed and intuitive service from an experienced team. Cast those worries aside, splash some cash and drop anchor.
Phone:
(02) 9220 0111
Bookings:
Bookings recommended
Features:
  • Licensed
  • Bar
  • Wheelchair access
  • Outdoor dining
  • Impressive wine list
Accepted card types:
  • American Express
  • Eftpos
  • MasterCard
  • Visa
Chef(s):
Brent Savage & Anthony Schifilliti
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.