Detour: Restaurant review

You wouldn't expect to hike a well-trodden path at somewhere called Detour, and chef patron Damon Amos (nickname D – D-tour, get it?) certainly enjoys veering off the straight and narrow. Half the menu is plant-based, one wagyu dish is seasoned with actual gunpowder, and uncommon inclusions like black ants might arrive garnishing the salmon poached in masterstock. Emu tartare is less outré – the hand-cut flank is dark and sweet, packing heat from a sprinkling of habanero salt, sharply accessorised with charry-edged banana shallots and blobs of cured egg yolk topped with dill. Vegan options – savoury king brown mushrooms with creamy chestnut pâté, sage and sunflower seed crackers, say, or miso-pepped coal-roasted broccoli, scattered with a crisp rubble of quinoa and split peas – encourage thorough exploration of a fun, almost all-Australian wine list favouring smaller producers. Service is enthusiastic, and Amos may even appear with a dish or two – perhaps almond-studded raspberry and yuzu aquafaba meringue, frozen in liquid nitrogen and finished with basil-seed jelly. Interiors here are nicely detailed, too; a bespoke mix of refined rustic and industrial chic. Well-trodden? Not by a long shot. An adventurous diversion? Absolutely.

Phone:
(07) 3217 4880

Bookings:
Bookings recommended

Accepted card types:

• American Express
• Eftpos
• MasterCard
• Visa

Chefs:
Damon Amos