Brock Beazley
REVIEW
It’s a different restaurant to the one originally envisaged, but Essa fits seamlessly into its swish just-off-James Street neighbourhood. Since its late-August launch, the moody, split-level space has been thronged; a mix of dark charcoal walls, exposed brick and striking green marble creating a bolthole for diners to happily disappear within. Phil Marchant’s (ex-Gauge head chef) understated menu is created with an eye to sustainability and underpinned by meticulous technique. Grilled Brisbane Valley quail arrives plump and rested – its paper-thin skin is crisp, the bird’s meatiness magnified by brown butter and offset by a garnish of tart pickled caper leaves. Airy chickpea beignets score a slick, bisque-like caramelised scallop sauce; while hand-rolled malloreddus shells come bathed in a ‘nduja and carrot sauce that showcases the co-starring Fraser Island spanner crab. Service might suffer occasional teething problems but sommelier Phillip Poussart’s (ex-Fico, Hobart) list delivers a lively mix of classic and more on-trend choices. Essa is an elegant take on progressive dining.
ABOUT
Essa
181 Robertson St, Fortitude Valley, Qld
(07) 3177 1011
Chefs Phil Marchant & Fin Burgess
Price guide $$
Bookings Essential
Wheelchair access Yes
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide 2022
Our guide gives a yearly snapshot of the best restaurants to eat at right now. The best-rated restaurants, as judged by the reviewers’ first-hand experience, form our national Top 80.
