Restaurant Guide

Fico: Restaurant review

Even when the chef-owners of this European restaurant get creative, the flavours stay true and ingredient-focused.

Address

151 Macquarie St
Hobart, TAS

Hours

Lunch Fri-Sun noon-2pm
Dinner Wed-Sat 5.30pm-9pm;

Prices

E $6-$18
M $25-$48
D $10-14; set menu $85

There's an expansiveness about Fico (Italian for fig), from the generosity of service and the large shared tables to the breadth of offerings for all hungers and tastes. Each dish is a pleasure for the eyes and the palate, with unexpected – and often delightful – turns a constant. Mention of fennel pollen can signal faddishness, but scepticism is dashed by the craft, texture and flavour of warm brioche topped with Ortiz anchovy and a scatter of the yellow anise-accented dust. And how can a cube of cured kingfish jellied in soy be so entrancing? Italy may be the guiding light for owner-chefs Federica Andrisani and Oskar Rossi, but the influence is wide, and the focus on local ingredients is laser-guided. Grilled Furneaux Islands mutton bird with capers and marjoram is impeccably crisp and opulently oily; pigeon is matched with creamy cauliflower, bitter-rich kale and the piquancy of horseradish. A dessert of honey gelato, meanwhile, sprinkled with hibiscus powder and set atop soft meringue riffs on a bombe Alaska, just without the bombe. Fico is full of flair, and, like its namesake, beautiful to behold and bursting with flavour.
Phone:
(03) 6245 3391
Website:
ficofico.net
Bookings:
Bookings essential
Features:
  • Licensed
  • Bar
Accepted card types:
  • American Express
  • Eftpos
  • MasterCard
  • Visa
Chef(s):
Federica Andrisani & Oskar Rossi
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.