Restaurant Guide

Fico: Restaurant review

A Hobart restaurant that embraces and interprets local produce with flair.

REVIEW

GT's 2022 Tas Restaurant of the Year
Fico has never been easy to categorise. Early days saw owner-chefs Federica Andrisani and Oskar Rossi embracing Italian and Japanese cuisines and those influences remain on the multi-course tasting menu – a superb sea urchin risotto flavoured with rice wine vinegar; a yuzu, white chocolate and miso caramel dessert – though the premier driving force now is Tasmania. Whether you're talking cup-like shells of dehydrated beetroot filled with Tongola curd freckled with dried black olives, impeccably tender muttonbird drumsticks or raw morwong teamed with fresh horseradish and avocado, the commitment to the local combined with the chefs' skill and originality is irresistible. Wine is sourced from near and far – Italian lambrusco rubs shoulders with Tasmanian gruner veltliner – but, like the relaxed, comfortable room, plays a supporting role to the food. Hobart restaurants like Fico, that embrace and interpret local produce more emphatically than any other Australian capital city, explain the city's presence on culinary radars near and far.

ABOUT

Fico
151 Macquarie St, Hobart, Tas
(03) 6245 3391
ficofico.net
Chefs Federica Andrisani & Oskar Rossi
Price guide $$$
Bookings Essential
Wheelchair access Yes
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.