Restaurant Guide

Gerard’s Bistro: Restaurant review

Adam Wolfers and the team subvert Middle Eastern cuisine, hijacking typical ingredients to create share plates as complex and surprising as the richly detailed fit-out of this must-visit James Street eatery.

Address

14/15 James St
Fortitude Valley, Brisbane, QLD

Hours

Lunch Wed-Sun noon-3pm
Dinner daily 6pm-10pm

Prices

E $15-$27
M $26-$50
D $15

This striking Modernist-inspired destination, just off modish James Street, is one of Australia's smartest interpreters of Middle Eastern cooking, and the recent arrival of Sydney chef Adam Wolfers (Ételek, Yellow) will serve only to elevate this reputation. Wolfers' début menu is a masterclass on stepping into hallowed kitchen turf with confidence. Take the snacks, for example: rock oysters veiled in spiced brown butter, or koftas reimagined as finely minced, beautifully spiced kangaroo patties moulded around a bone, with tangy fermented tahini and chilli oil for dipping. Kataifi is presented as golden-crisp strings of potato, a nest-like topping for a creamy blend of sunflower seeds and chickpeas. And Gerard's signature lamb tartare? The richly flavoured backstrap dice now conceals a piquant base of garlic spiked yoghurt– add dollops of both to a tortilla-like celeriac "flatbread", load up with ribbons of pickled fennel and smile. More heft? Try the beef intercostals bolstered by basturma spices and potent toum. Friendly service is rounded out by sommelier Dalia Katia Leo, who is as well-versed as her list's wide-ranging scope. Mandarin curd, black cardamom ice-cream and sesame crumble delivers an aptly nuanced finish.
Phone:
(07) 3852 3822
Bookings:
Bookings recommended
Features:
  • Licensed
  • Bar
  • Vegetarian-friendly
  • Wheelchair access
  • Outdoor dining
  • Private room
Accepted card types:
  • American Express
  • Eftpos
  • MasterCard
  • Visa
Chef:
Adam Wolfers
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.