GOMA Restaurant: Restaurant review

QAGOMA is often regarded as having the world's best broad collection of art from Asia and the Pacific, so its restaurant has quite the reputation to support. Entering through the contemporary art gallery's lofty foyer adds to a sense of occasion, even if the restaurant itself is relatively modest (its few embellishments include an enormous Choi Jeong Hwa light sculpture and custom-made dining chairs). That keeps the focus squarely on the food and, thankfully, it's up to the scrutiny. Thinly sliced Mooloolaba cuttlefish with fennel on a bed of beurre noisette malto is both delicate and refined, while toothfish goes the other way, a boldly flavoured fillet matched with leek, wasabi and potato terrine seasoned with vinegar – a dressed-up fish and chips of sorts. Charming if occasionally uneven service shines best when explaining this gastronomy, as well as recommending a wine list that leans hard into Queensland drops. Stick around for a burnt white chocolate and pimento parfait with mandarin – a dessert that will stick with you, and seal your decision for a return visit.

Phone:
(07) 3842 9916

Bookings:
Bookings recommended

Chef(s):
Douglas Innes-Will, Michael Bickford & Matt Blackwell