REVIEW
On paper, it sounds almost unworkable. But tiny Joy – a dégustation-only 10-seater – remains one of Queensland’s hottest bookings, not least due to owner-chef Sarah Baldwin’s exceptional clarity of vision. The best way to snag a seat is via an Instagram cancellation, which could take months. Luckily, perseverance is repaid with a unique dining experience enjoyed beside the calmly purposeful kitchen. Expect an explosion of contrasting flavours and textures. Intricacy is a given across a handful of snacks, followed by a benchmark chawanmushi spiked with lime and stacked with toasted quinoa, salty-sweet roasted enoki mushrooms and salmon roe. Hot cumin-spiced brown butter gives ocean trout ceviche a new edge, with focaccia for dipping. Beef tartare arrives with pine nuts, seaweed and fresh pear, while beetroot and bee pollen sherbet ensures an apple and lemon myrtle cream cheese dessert zings. Brilliant off-piste drinks pairings – Chinese pineapple beer, say, or an oloroso sherry and sobacha cocktail – also spark true joy.
ABOUT
Joy Restaurant
Contemporary
Shop 7, 694 Ann St, Fortitude Valley
0412 425 626
Chef Sarah Baldwin
Price guide $$$
Bookings Essential
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Dinner Wed-Fri
This review was written independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way. To learn more about the process, head over here.
Gourmet Traveller Annual Restaurant Guide
Our guide gives a yearly snapshot of the best restaurants to eat at right now. The best-rated restaurants, as judged by the reviewers’ first-hand experience, form our national guide.
