Restaurant Guide

Joy: Restaurant review

It's all in the name at this Brisbane bolthole, where the chef-owners serve up plates that bring nothing by a smile to your face.


Bakery Lane, Shop 7,
694 Ann St, Fortitude Valley, Qld


Dinner Wed-Sun 5.45pm-10pm


5 courses $75;
8 courses $110

This 10-seat chef's table affair is as tiny and uplifting as its name. There's nothing extraneous – just two chef-owners (who live above the shop) cooking their hearts out in a galley-style kitchen, sharing Joy with diners as they plate up before them, tweezers and tongs in hand. It's an intensely personal experience heightened by the immediacy of the style of service. Oven-fresh corn chawanmushi comes to the comptoir topped with crisp-fried quinoa seasoned with pale shreds of scallop floss, petals of lacto-fermented pumpkin for zing and smoked salmon roe. Venison tartare is sheathed in a translucent skin of fermented celeriac, its meatiness offset by roasted sesame and a trio of garlic garnishes – flowers, black fermented and lightly bitter golden chips. A snappy drinks list favours the artisanal, which tallies with the ethos here, with the likes of Ephemera's negroamaro and brown-rice sake on pour. Mont Blanc is remastered for dessert and topped with gold leaf, with malted roast artichoke caramel in place of chestnut, and a layered base of salted crème Chantilly and savoiardi. Unalloyed Joy sparked.
0412 425 626
Bookings essential
  • Licensed
  • Vegetarian-friendly
  • Wheelchair access
Accepted card types:
  • American Express
  • Eftpos
  • MasterCard
  • Visa
Tim & Sarah Scott
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Our guide gives a yearly snapshot at the best restaurants to eat at right now. The best-rated restaurants, as judged by the reviewers' first-hand experience, form our national Top 50.