Miznon: Restaurant review

It's a global cult as much as it is a restaurant. Proselytising the power of pita, Israeli chef Eyal Shani has installed his pulpit in Hardware Lane, where a two-tiered dining room with stadium-style bleacher seating is serving up an addictive recipe for good times and great food. Take heed: Miznon means "kiosk" in Hebrew. Fine dining this is not, but the casual approach to service (it's an order-at-the-counter situation, and nearly everything is served in a pita or paper bag) doesn't undermine some serious kitchen moves. A best-in-show falafel game is being played in the form of a fluffy-light burger wrapped and tucked inside a pita pocket with meaty tomato and the bite of red onion and pickles, while Sac de Coque sums up the freewheeling ethos with a jumbled bag of golden-skinned chicken with a bitter-edged salad, fried potatoes and thick aïoli. Assertively peppered swordfish swimming in a bread-sopping moat of lemon vinaigrette makes the case for simplicity, but there's no harm in chasing it with the house gag of a Run Over: a buttery, garlicky roasted potato smooshed with sour cream between two pieces of baking paper.

Phone:
(03) 9670 2861

*Bookings:
Bookings for 3+ only

Chef(s):
Eyal Shani & Afik Gal