Restaurant Guide

Mr Wong: Restaurant review

Address

3 Bridge La
Sydney, NSW

Hours

Sat-Sun 10.30am-3pm;
Lunch Mon-Fri noon-3pm;
Dinner Mon-Wed 5.30pm-11pm, Thu-Sat 5.30pm-midnight, Sun 5.30pm-10pm

Prices

E $13-$36
M $22-$88
D $17-$20;
Banquet $84-$150

REVIEW

Mr Wong sure knows how to roast a duck. Beside the open kitchen, the birds hang raw and resplendent in a glass display, quietly awaiting the five-spice and roasting treatment. They arrive shiny and crisp-skinned, with an excellent fat-to-tender-meat ratio, primed for rolling in pancakes with cucumber and hoisin sauce. Duck is a top order at this Merivale behemoth, where the extensive menu shows a grab bag of Chinese influences under a loose Australian-Cantonese banner – there are wins in excellent fried rice and braised mushrooms that sing with Shaoxing wine sweetness, for example, or with the likes of Sichuan-style crisp battered eggplant in fish-fragrant sauce. In the seafood stakes, pipis in a vibrant XO sauce win out over steamed cod fillets for both interest and execution – a whole fish might be a better bet. There's plenty to see in the two-level dining room, from the Shanghai colonial-era accents to the glassed-in wine cellar where staff ascend a ladder to reach the bottles above. There may be a couple of draughty pockets, and the somms might steer you towards the pointier end of the Burgundy-heavy wine list, but these are small losses, because as that final, memorable deep-fried ice-cream shows, at Mr Wong, when you win, you win big.
Phone:
(02) 9114 7317
Bookings:
Bookings for 6+ guests, yum cha, lunch and late night only
Features:
  • Licensed
  • Bar
  • Vegetarian-friendly
  • Impressive wine list
Accepted card types:
  • American Express
  • Eftpos
  • MasterCard
  • Visa
Chef(s):
Dan Hong & Loong Oon
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.