Every neighbourhood might deserve a place like Napier Quarter, but few are lucky enough to boast the likes of this back-street bluestone that makes Fitzroy feel like Melbourne's sixth arrondissement. The recent arrival of chef Eileen Horsnell has pushed this stayer to new heights of cult favouritism among the crowds grabbing a kerbside table on pretty Napier Street or a bentwood chair in the salon-like dining room, all thanks to a menu drenched in comfort and oozing style. Stracciatella, poached persimmon and bottarga make a compellingly sophisticated triptych, while an egg yolk cracked into a supple nest of house-made pappardelle dressed only in olive oil, Parmigiano- Reggiano, thyme and a decent hand on the salt and pepper evokes a luxe cacio e pepe. Nettle soup the colour of envy – served with rugged rye toast and butter, both made in-house – will cure whatever ails you, while an apple and frangipane tart extends the brief to the sweet end of the meal. Equally a breakfast hangout par excellence as a wine bar with plenty of low-intervention moves, Napier Quarter covers all the bases with rare aplomb.
Phone: (03) 9416 0666
- Outdoor dining
Accepted card types:
- American Express
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.