Restaurant Guide

Orso: Restaurant review

You don't have to venture far from Adelaide's CBD to experience chef Will Doak's lively menu.


36 Kensington Rd,
Rose Park, SA


Brunch Sun 9.30am-2.30pm
Lunch Tue-Sat noon-3pm
Dinner Tue-Sat 5.30pm-10pm


E $14-$28
M $28-$55
D $15-$17
Chef's menu $75

Serving luxurious comfort food in a casual contemporary setting, Orso has Adelaide swooning. Pasta, for one, oozes generosity, and embraces the same modern Mediterranean palate that informs the rest of the menu. Rich rabbit ragù is folded through fat pappardelle, sprinkled with fried sage leaves and roasted hazelnuts. Mulloway is dressed in a wonderfully savoury Italian XO sauce (cutely called Ciao XO) made with pancetta, parmesan, air-dried tuna, porcini and white balsamic. Potatoes are prominent, as a winning snack of croquettes filled with taleggio on Calabrese chilli aioli, or an essential side of crushed, roasted then fried spuds dressed with truffled pecorino – almost a meal itself, and destined to be a crowd favourite. It's not all dark tones and richness though: lively kingfish crudo, for example, features pearls of finger lime and crisp sugar snaps. Proprietor Andre Ursini has spared no expense transforming a former bluestone manor into an airy dining space dressed in marble and timber, its vast open kitchen setting a vibrant rhythm that gets the whole room buzzing. Add the attentive waitstaff and this type of polished neighbourhood eatery is very easy to digest.
(08) 8364 1008
Bookings recommended
  • Licensed
  • BYO
  • Vegetarian-friendly
  • Wheelchair access
  • Outdoor dining
  • Private room
Accepted card types:
  • American Express
  • Eftpos
  • MasterCard
  • Visa
Will Doak
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Our guide gives a yearly snapshot at the best restaurants to eat at right now. The best-rated restaurants, as judged by the reviewers' first-hand experience, form our national Top 50.