Propeller: Restaurant review

You haven't lived until you've tried Propeller's take on knafeh: warm, baked cheese with a light breadcrumb and filo crust, accompanying pear and pomegranate salad and a flash of orange blossom syrup. It's a bold breakfast choice by day, a perfectly balanced dessert by night, and testament to Kurt Sampson's ability to spin Middle Eastern flavours into some of their smartest, freshest and most versatile incarnations. He does it again with kibbeh nayeh, swapping traditional raw lamb for diced kingfish turned through a textural mix of cracked wheat and spices, accompanied by pillowy triangles of flatbread, mint leaves and red onion that bring a fun touch of DIY. There's harmony in the space itself, too, complete with lofty ceilings, cool concrete hues and a service bar made from a repurposed shipping container. Indoor plants and bentwood chairs soften the industrial edge, as do warm staff that appear and disappear as needed throughout dinner. The drinks list is geared towards vinous exploration with a healthy selection of local, classic and experimental wines from all corners. Polished, unpretentious, propeller-spinning fun.

Phone:
(08) 9335 9366

Bookings:
Bookings recommended

Chef:
Kurt Sampson