Restaurant Guide

Provenance: Restaurant review

The elegantly refreshed Provenance has never shone brighter, promising diners a riot of colour, slow food and ceramics.

REVIEW

Last year, Provenance chef Michael Ryan – facing seemingly insurmountable hurdles – transformed his already excellent Japanese-leaning fine diner into something better still. The former scientist took to fermenting and distilling anything that stood still long enough. He appraised the eight-course set menu format and found it wanting. The experience now resembles the kaiseki menus of ryokan bathhouses – 18 dishes delivered in four waves. The riot of colour, slow food and ceramics begins with a silky prawn with vinegar jelly, myriad pickles and a soft lobe of poached kohlrabi with salted plum – umeboshi. There may be plush duck ham, or hand-cut udon noodles slippery with tonkotsu, or maybe sweet-salty lacto-fermented pumpkin, double dashed with its own seeds both as oil and furikake. Supported by Damian Moylan's impeccable sake and hyper-local wine selections (and Ryan's own amari) and that historic room, elegantly refreshed in late 2019, this Beechworth star has never shone brighter.

ABOUT

Provenance
86 Ford St, Beechworth, Vic
(03) 5728 1786
theprovenance.com.au
Chef Michael Ryan
Price guide $$$
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.