Restaurant Guide

Provenance: Restaurant review

This much-decorated restaurant in Victoria's north-east has been earning interest and acclaim since it opened more than a decade ago.

Address

86 Ford St
Beechworth, VIC

Hours

Wed-Sun 6.00pm-9.00pm

Prices

2 courses $75;
3 courses $95;
Dégustation $125

A postcard from Beechworth in 2019 might read, "Spent the day on a Ned Kelly tour, visited local brewery, a pick-your-own apple orchard and a Japanese-ish restaurant in the old Bank of Australasia." Fine-diner Provenance might seem an unusual fit for a Gold Rush town near the New South Wales border, but Michael Ryan sees things others don't. So there's kangaroo, Fernet-Branca and house-made tofu on the menu and the marvel of a one-two umami hit of tomato and seaweed paired with fillets of blue-eye. Around you, couples enjoy the low-key luxury of the heritage building handsomely restored in blues and greys. The dishes are less subdued, whether it's roasted Mutsu apples, picked 10 minutes away, sweetened with a miso caramel and served with tres leches cake, or a knockout entrée of crab and charred leek in an almond-milk broth enhanced by shio koji. Every element adds up to a deeply flavoured and complex whole. Perhaps Ryan's real skill is storytelling, showing us where Australian palates have been and might be going. It's a story with a very happy ending.
Phone:
(03) 5728 1786
Bookings:
Bookings recommended
Features:
  • Licensed
  • Vegetarian-friendly
  • Wheelchair access
  • Impressive wine list
Accepted card types:
  • American Express
  • Eftpos
  • MasterCard
  • Visa
Chef(s):
Michael Ryan
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.