Restaurant Guide

Saint Peter: Restaurant review

Chef Josh Niland secures his place among the nation’s finest seafood cooks.

Address

362 Oxford St, Paddington, NSW

Hours

Lunch Fri noon-2.30pm,
Sat-Sun noon-3pm;
Dinner Tue-Sun 5.30pm-10pm

Prices

E $20-$32
M $39-$48
D $18

Swordfish belly bacon. Murray cod-fat caramel. Albacore eye chip. Welcome to Saint Peter, where chef-owner Josh Niland gives as much reverence to fish offal as prime flesh, and every day is another opportunity for ingenuity. Go open, curious and ready to try Australian seafood species that are seldom celebrated, often wild-caught, and undoubtedly prepared in ways you've never seen before. The experience, from what's on the plate to what's in the glass, can be as classic or adventurous as you wish. Margaret River chardonnay or a wild-fermented beer? Six varieties of oyster, served simply, or rounds of snapper throat on toast with a zingy salsa verde? Coffs Harbour kingfish stomach is sliced into tender ribbons, sauced with fish heart and offal XO and sat atop doughy crumpets. Niland pushes fish to the edge, dry-ageing bass groper for 25 days, say. Served grilled with a tangy VB mustard, its robust flavour is divisive – but on another day, in a wintry pie, it's just right. The ever-changing menu means waitstaff don't always have the detail this level of innovation calls for, but stop in at Fish Butchery, just a few doors up, and the dedication and knowledge is peerless.
Phone:
(02) 8937 2530
Bookings:
Bookings essential
Features:
  • Licensed
  • Vegetarian-friendly
Accepted card types:
  • American Express
  • Eftpos
  • MasterCard
  • Visa
Chef:
Josh Niland
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.