Restaurant Guide

Sunda: Restaurant review

A talented chef makes a convincing case that native Australian ingredients have a place within Southeast Asian tradition.

Address

18 Punch La,
Melbourne, Vic

Hours

Lunch Fri noon-3pm;
Dinner Mon-Thu 6pm-10pm, Fri-Sat 5.30pm-10pm

Prices

E $6-$10
M $24-$43
D $17-$18

If you can't find the roti with Vegemite curry on the menu, don't panic — you have to know about it to order it. And do order it: the combination of buttery roti and creamy Vegemite-spiked curry is pure comfort food. Sunda's space may speak cool industrial minimalism, but the feel is warm and bustling with everything from unfussy service to a food-friendly, trend-conscious wine list and communal tables near the open kitchen encouraging a convivial mood. A more intimate experience can be had upstairs, where regular tables and wood panelling offer serenity and privacy. There are plenty of dishes deserving cult status beyond the Vegemite curry. The glossy wagyu rendang pie (more of a bun) swiped with feisty sambal is an exceptional take on Malaysian flavours, while a flank of smoked eggplant topped with bright jewels of Davidson's plum and fermented coconut is a deeply satisfying main course. A Vietnamese coffee-inspired pavlova, rich with chocolate ganache and condensed milk and finished with a scattering of earthy wattleseed, sums up chef Khanh Nguyen's brilliantly polymathic approach to flavour sweetly and succinctly.
Phone:
(03) 9654 8190
Website:
sunda.com.au
Bookings:
Bookings recommended
Features:
  • Licensed
  • Vegetarian-friendly
  • Wheelchair access
Accepted card types:
  • American Express
  • Diners Club
  • Eftpos
  • MasterCard
  • Visa
Chef:
Khanh Nguyen
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.