REVIEW
How refreshing to find a new Sydney restaurant that isn’t trying too hard to be sexy or hip. This double-storey heritage terrace has an almost Audrey Hepburn-esque innocence to it; it’s pretty, not pretentious, and comforting rather than challenging. But that doesn’t mean it’s boring. Owner-chef Phil Wood and his partner Lis Davies pull out all sorts of clever tricks. The butter sauce beneath French-style roast Bannockburn chicken, gai lan and mushroom duxelles comes with a twist: the savoury lilt of kombu. Desserts surprise by travelling over the globe, from retro CWA-inspired golden-syrup dumplings to a Southeast Asian pandan custard. The wine list, meanwhile, ranges from edgy to immediately recognisable. In the context of a homely, sunshine-hued dining room with white tablecloths and scalloped crockery, all this may read as disjointed on paper. In reality, it simply feels warm and jolly – not just comfortable, but content in its own skin.
ABOUT
Ursula’s
92 Hargrave St, Paddington
0499 525 235
Chef Phil Wood
Price guide $$$
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access No
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way. To learn more about the process, click here.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide 2023
Our guide gives a yearly snapshot of the best restaurants to eat at right now. The best-rated restaurants, as judged by the reviewers’ first-hand experience, form our national Top 82.
