Restaurant Guide

Vasse Felix: Restaurant review

This Margaret River pioneer has found another gear of late.

REVIEW

Is it a coincidence that some of WA's most painterly dishes are found in a restaurant overlooking an art gallery? Although Vasse Felix has long anchored discussions about Margaret River's best eating, this regional pioneer has found another gear of late. Over the past four years, chef Brendan Pratt has been refining his style, and it shows in a tight edit of plates that are more adventurous (corn custard draped with silken sheets of fazzoletti and egg yolk), more technical (apple lathed into fat, translucent straps and played off against cured scallops) and more delicious (here's to you, flatbread with beef tongue, XO sauce and black truffle) than what's cooking at garden-variety winery restaurants. While a new confidence also underpins the wining – is that a skin-contact sav blanc on the drinks list? – some aspects of the dining remain unchanged, chief among them being the floor team's winning blend of knowledge and charm.

ABOUT

Vasse Felix
4357 Caves Rd, Cowaramup, WA
(08) 9756 5050
vassefelix.com.au
Chef Brendan Pratt
Price guide $$
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.