Russell Ord
REVIEW
Is it a coincidence that some of WA’s most painterly dishes are found in a restaurant overlooking an art gallery? Although Vasse Felix has long anchored discussions about Margaret River’s best eating, this regional pioneer has found another gear of late. Over the past four years, chef Brendan Pratt has been refining his style, and it shows in a tight edit of plates that are more adventurous (corn custard draped with silken sheets of fazzoletti and egg yolk), more technical (apple lathed into fat, translucent straps and played off against cured scallops) and more delicious (here’s to you, flatbread with beef tongue, XO sauce and black truffle) than what’s cooking at garden-variety winery restaurants. While a new confidence also underpins the wining – is that a skin-contact sav blanc on the drinks list? – some aspects of the dining remain unchanged, chief among them being the floor team’s winning blend of knowledge and charm.
ABOUT
Vasse Felix
4357 Caves Rd, Cowaramup, WA
(08) 9756 5050
Chef Brendan Pratt
Price guide $$
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide 2022
Our guide gives a yearly snapshot of the best restaurants to eat at right now. The best-rated restaurants, as judged by the reviewers’ first-hand experience, form our national Top 80.
