Wines of While: Restaurant review

See the part in the fine print that says "Chef Sam Winfield"? The owner of the freshly minted GT Bar of the Year isn't going to like that. When it comes to preparing food, "cook" rather than "chef" is our man's word of choice. It's a distinction that points to the honest, unembellished Mediterranean food offered to guests at this intimate and wildly popular (natural) wine bar and bottle shop at the top of William Street. The country-style terrine? Chunky in texture and studded with a courageous amount of back fat. Those comforting white beans? Finished with plenty of olive oil and grated lemon zest. Everything on the left-hand side of the chalkboard menu is designed to play nice with the excellent house sourdough (even if said bread needs little more than a smudge of the room-temperature butter it's served with). Vegetable dishes, such as bitter leaves dressed with bottarga, ring with seasonal savour, while comforting pastas like polpette tortiglioni make for great solo lunching. Ask enthusiastic staff to set you up with a glass of something fitting from the bar's world-class line-up of vino and know happiness.

Phone:
(08) 9328 3332

Bookings:
No bookings

Chef:
Sam Winfield