REVIEW
Who says natural wine (bars) don’t age well? As Wines of While crosses the five-year mark, some HR wins see this pioneer in career-best form. Venue manager Philip Koch has introduced a little more restaurant craft to things, tightening service without losing the bar’s freewheeling spirit. In the kitchen, one of the city’s best co-head chef duos thrills with hit after hit of high-definition European farmhouse cooking. Pissaladière is crunchy and salty in all the right places. Lamb’s brain in lemon butter is a glorious ode to offal. Esqueixada, the Catalan salt cod and vegetable salad with blood oranges, is a joy. Whatever’s grilled on the konro – Berkshire pork chops or whole rainbow trout, say – is reliably excellent, as are unfussy sweets like chocolate cake with fig and salted honey ice-cream. Add one of Australia’s great low-intervention wine selections to the equation, and it’s little wonder this tiny gem continues to pump.
ABOUT
Wines of While
European
458 William St, Perth
0447 804 133
Chefs Jack Botha & Branden Scott
Price guide $
Booking Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Fri-Sun; Dinner Wed-Sat
This review was written independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way. To learn more about the process, head over here.
Gourmet Traveller Annual Restaurant Guide
Our guide gives a yearly snapshot of the best restaurants to eat at right now. The best-rated restaurants, as judged by the reviewers’ first-hand experience, form our national guide.
