Restaurant Reviews

4Fourteen: Restaurant review

4Fourteen

Address

414 Bourke St
Surry Hills, Sydney, NSW

Hours

Lunch Fri-Sun noon-3pm
Dinner Tue-Sat 6pm-10pm

Prices

Small shared plates $13-$23,
large $29-$42
D $14-$16

REVIEW

At last count, Surry Hills had 42 trillion venues where you can peck at a nifty little salad or poke at a spicy smudge of Asian fusion on the end of a ceramic spoon. So if that's what you're looking for, look elsewhere. You'll have plenty of options. It might be pretty, it might be refined, but this breezy bistro doesn't mess around with micro-herbs. What you're getting here is proper, muscular, meat-and-potatoes Irish fare: gleaming oily mackerel with horseradish crème fraîche, slabs of corned beef with bresaola, lamb shoulder and buttery colcannon. The boutique wine list is worth a second or third visit so you can really explore - if you've ever wondered what a fruity dry white from Georgia tastes like, this is the place to find out. The only complaint is that the space clad in subway tiles has a bit of a noise-insulation issue - just pray you don't get seated next to the table of team-builders braying about last quarter's sales figures.

Phone:
(02) 9331 5399

Bookings:
Bookings recommended

Features:

  • Licensed
  • Vegetarian-friendly
  • Wheelchair Access
  • Impressive Wine List

Accepted card types:

  • American Express
  • Eftpos
  • MasterCard
  • Visa

Chef(s):
Carla Jones & Colin Fassnidge

This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.