Restaurant Reviews

Anchovy: Restaurant review

Anchovy

Address

338 Bridge Rd
Richmond, Melbourne, VIC

Hours

Lunch Fri noon-2.30pm
Dinner Tue-Fri 5.30pm-10.30pm, Sat 5pm-10.30pm

Prices

E $12-$26
M $34-$38
D $12-$15
Dégustation $65

REVIEW

Since opening Anchovy in 2015, owner-chef Thi Le has explored the Vietnamese food of her heritage through a contemporary lens. Over time, her investigations have become deeper (the condiments of northern Vietnam and Laos), fiercer (experiments with stinky tofu) and more intentional (what can be done with a whole pig). Pickled mussels are tumbled with curry sauce and piled onto a crisp Chinese doughnut in a riff on escabeche. Beef carpaccio is layered over zingy bean sprouts and pencil leek, recalling both the rare meat you'd find in pho and an Italian entrée. Tofu, fermented until it's a funky liquid, is mixed with ginger and Chinese black olives to create a beguiling salad cream for cosberg lettuce. Back it up with canny service, a snug dining room and a food-friendly wine list, and Anchovy makes a case for being one of Melbourne's most appealing small restaurants.

Phone:
(03) 9428 3526

Bookings:
Bookings recommended

Features:

  • Licensed
  • Bar
  • Vegetarian-friendly
  • Wheelchair Access
  • Outdoor dining
  • Impressive Wine List

Accepted card types:

  • American Express
  • Eftpos
  • MasterCard
  • Visa

Chef(s):
Thi Le

This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.