First came Vietnam, with dishes such as octopus and fermented daikon noodles or chicken parfait served with baguette, toasted and smoky from the char-grill. Next came Israel, with pickled garfish topped with mango or halva served with date ice-cream. Korea followed, with Mexico after that. Chef Charlie Carrington doesn't stay in the same place for long. Changing the cuisine in his comfortably upholstered and flatteringly lit South Yarra restaurant every four months could easily lead to culinary carnage, but he has a deft touch and a real understanding of the wood-fired grills, oven and hearth in his open kitchen. His menus offer good value and prove him to be a quick scholar of the cuisines he tackles (his Israeli sweetbread and toasted challah dish proved that emphatically). Coupled with smooth service and a short, sharp wine list that changes as regularly as the menu, Carrington's cooking makes Atlas one of Melbourne's most exciting new restaurants.
(03) 9826 2621
- Outdoor dining
Accepted card types:
- American Express
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.