Restaurant Reviews

Atlas Dining: Restaurant review

Atlas Dining

Address

133 Commercial Rd
South Yarra, VIC

Hours

Lunch Sat 12pm-4pm;
dinner Tue-Thu 6pm-11pm
Fri-Sat 5.30pm-11pm

Prices

degustations $70-$95

REVIEW

Changing cuisine every four months could lead to gimmickry. Not so at Atlas where Charlie Carrington's approach – a focus on essence over tradition – keeps things fresh and exciting. So far his well-priced, multi-course menus have embraced Vietnam, Israel, Korea, Mexico, Peru and France. A love of pickling and fermenting plus the char and smokiness from his wood-fired kitchen are the unifying features in dishes like a kingfish ceviche with leche de tigre jelly (Peru), smoky beef teamed with a pho-like broth (Vietnam) or hearth-burnt eggplant with a pistachio and tahini purée (Israel). The warmly lit dining room is attended by relaxed staff well versed in the particular cuisine of the moment. Attention to detail (the pre-loaded leather cutlery holder, the courtyard brazier) and a drinks list that includes natural wines and cocktails make this one of the smartest dining experiences in town.

Phone:
(03) 9826 2621

Bookings:
Bookings recommended

Features:

  • Licensed
  • Vegetarian-friendly
  • Outdoor dining

Accepted card types:

  • American Express
  • Eftpos
  • MasterCard
  • Visa

Chef(s):
Charlie Carrington

This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.