Changing cuisine every four months could lead to gimmickry. Not so at Atlas where Charlie Carrington's approach – a focus on essence over tradition – keeps things fresh and exciting. So far his well-priced, multi-course menus have embraced Vietnam, Israel, Korea, Mexico, Peru and France. A love of pickling and fermenting plus the char and smokiness from his wood-fired kitchen are the unifying features in dishes like a kingfish ceviche with leche de tigre jelly (Peru), smoky beef teamed with a pho-like broth (Vietnam) or hearth-burnt eggplant with a pistachio and tahini purée (Israel). The warmly lit dining room is attended by relaxed staff well versed in the particular cuisine of the moment. Attention to detail (the pre-loaded leather cutlery holder, the courtyard brazier) and a drinks list that includes natural wines and cocktails make this one of the smartest dining experiences in town.
(03) 9826 2621
- Outdoor dining
Accepted card types:
- American Express
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.