Restaurant Reviews

Attica: Restaurant review

Attica

Address

74 Glen Eira Rd
Ripponlea, Melbourne, VIC

Hours

Dinner Tue-Sat 6pm-10pm

Prices

Tasting menu $275

REVIEW

Year after year, Attica goes deeper into its exploration of Australian food as seen through the eyes of a New Zealand-born outsider with a growing obsession over native flora and fauna and the technical expertise to make it new. Ben Shewry might have joined the ranks of the chef glitterati – attracting a small army of top-of-their-game waiter acolytes in the process – but the 17-course tasting menu is imbued with a surfeit of humour that dissolves any pretension. The remodelled dining room in its charcoal-muted glory treads a conservative line but the menu is lovable hyper-Australiana, from the Happy Little Vegemite roll to pearl meat grilled in paperbark with quandong. The parameters of Shewry's inquiry are broad, from the luxe (a whole marron, its de-shelled tail steamed in seaweed and anointed with desert lime) to the less-loved (possum sausage in bread). Fine dining is rarely so fun.

Phone:
(03) 9530 0111

Website:
attica.com.au

Bookings:
Bookings essential

Features:

  • Licensed
  • Vegetarian-friendly
  • Impressive Wine List

Accepted card types:

  • American Express
  • Diners Club
  • Eftpos
  • MasterCard
  • Visa

Chef(s):
Ben Shewry

This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.