Restaurant Reviews

Balthazar: Restaurant review

A discreet façade in Perth's white-collar heartland.

REVIEW

Did you hear the one about the CBD restaurant that accepts reservations, serves entrée-main-dessert and hires waitstaff that dress and act like professionals? In an age where wine bars, small plates and overly familiar service are all the rage, the modus operandi of this art deco wonderland might seem radical, but it's not: polished, old-school hospitality has been Balthazar's thing since opening day in 1998. The current menu is big on remixes of the classics; a translucent peel of pressed raw scallop and sea mullet scattered with tobiko equals new-wave carpaccio. Roast pork belly finds synergy with a clever scallop crème anglaise and char-grilled pineapple. Sandalwood nut ice-cream lends a contemporary accent to a textbook marjolaine. This is assured stuff, as is the patter of top-shelf waiters who know (and love) what they're doing, especially when it comes to helping diners make the most of the powerhouse cellar. A Perth classic that's ageing spectacularly.
Balthazar
6 The Esplanade, Perth
(08) 9421 1206
balthazar.com.au
Chef Luke Wakefield
Price guide $$
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide 2021. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.