Nowhere else captures Canberra's special blend of the parochial and the worldly like Rochford. It's fixed in the Deco optimism of the Melbourne Building's curves, in an old photo of the Civic Pool, all sunny innocence and Brindabella glare, and the angles of a Stanley Donwood print over the fireplace. Sounds disparate? Invested service, impeccable vinyl, hip wine and crisp cocktails make it a seamless sensation. The noise (and indeed the dancing) leaves no doubt that it's a bar first and eatery second. But Louis Couttoupes' bowerbird menus are very much an attraction in themselves. He serves beef tartare with squid-ink crackers that are more than a chromatic contrast, sharpens a salad of tomatoes and fromage blanc with blood plums, and his salt-and-vinegar galette – a gleaming block of hot potato – is the finest bar snack to be found for many a mile.
(02) 6230 6222
- Impressive Wine List
Accepted card types:
- American Express
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.