REVIEW
The nugget of rosemary-skewered kangaroo that opens your Bentley voyage might look simple, but a bite detonates a flavour-packed core: a miso-marinated lion’s mane mushroom. It’s a trick repeated throughout chef-owner Brent Savage’s laser-focused menu, with similar pyrotechnics deployed across the seven courses. Vibrantly sweet yet somehow crystal clear heirloom tomato water surrounds cubes of raw Great Barrier Reef coral trout and persimmon resting on punchy jamón cream, for example, while sour dots of Weissbier and pan-juice jelly glisten beside just-rendered slices of David Blackmore wagyu oyster blade. Somm-owner Nick Hildebrandt’s cellar is just as loaded with surprises, most joyfully showcased in the “Sommelier” pairing option, where a butter-smooth back-vintage chenin blanc is as likely to be followed by briny Sherry as it is youthful, fruit-laden Beaujolais. While it might be celebrating a decade in its Radisson Blu location, Bentley has never been sharper, more coherent and more full of fireworks.
ABOUT
Bentley
Australian
27 O’Connell St, Sydney
(02) 8214 0505
Chefs Brent Savage & Aiden Stevens
Price guide $$$
Bookings Essential
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Thu-Fri; Dinner Tue-Sat
This review was written independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way. To learn more about the process, head over here.
Gourmet Traveller Annual Restaurant Guide
Our guide gives a yearly snapshot of the best restaurants to eat at right now. The best-rated restaurants, as judged by the reviewers’ first-hand experience, form our national guide.
