Restaurant Reviews

Besser: Restaurant review


Shop 3, 355 Crown St
Surry Hills, Sydney, NSW


Lunch Mon-Sat noon-3pm
Dinner Mon-Sat 5.30pm-10pm


E $12-$21
M $24-$36
D $10-14


The namesake humble concrete brick favoured by Italian-Australians building their suburban dreams in the '70s is a trigger for long lost memories at this friendly eatery: of backyard gatherings, family meals, the comfort of home. They're good memories, and the sense of fun is evident in a floor painted lawn-green, the retro plastic chairs, and in a simple menu of share dishes served on enamel plates. A crew of flat-capped, waistcoated waiters keeps the party humming and the wine flowing - the functional list includes eight on tap. The spirit of an archetypal nonna is evoked in rich, moreish meatballs, a simple, well-made ragù with tagliatelle, and an unpretty but satisfying dish of wet polenta marbled with radicchio and Gorgonzola. Arrive early for a batch of 6.30pm risotto, served at seven.  Stay late for dessert, likely to be a highlight of the menu: a homely plum and polenta cake, say, or an un-nonna-like chilli chocolate fondant.  
(02) 9331 1611
Bookings recommended
  • Licensed
  • Bar
  • Vegetarian-friendly
  • Wheelchair Access
  • Outdoor dining
  • Impressive Wine List
Accepted card types:
  • American Express
  • Eftpos
  • MasterCard
  • Visa
Sandro Di Marino & Mark Zavone
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.