Restaurant Reviews

Billy Kwong: Restaurant review

Billy Kwong

Address

1/28 Macleay St
Potts Point, Sydney, NSW

Hours

Dinner Mon-Thu 5.30pm-10pm, Fri-Sat 5.30pm-11pm;
Sun noon-9pm

Prices

E $16-$29
M $29-$48
D $12
Set menu $82

REVIEW

Nowhere is the connection between Kylie Kwong's Chinese-Australian heritage and her understanding of place more clear than in her dishes fusing native ingredients with Cantonese cuisine. They're no gimmick. The tartness of Davidson's plum balances crisp-skinned duck with orange; the acid-pop of finger lime plays crucial foil to the XO sauce and lardons of pork belly tossed with a pile of split Guyra yabbies. Stir-fried native greens with shiro and ginger, meanwhile, are a gauntlet thrown down to all chefs who consider native plants only for garnish. From the natural and bespoke wines and the well-drilled waitstaff to the ochre walls and the clapping sticks, you can see Kwong's hands in it all, but they're steady hands indeed. Take a group, revel in the bigness of the portions and the generosity of spirit, and celebrate a restaurant that truly deserves the hype.

Phone:
(02) 9332 3300

Bookings:
Bookings recommended

Features:

  • Licensed
  • Vegetarian-friendly

Accepted card types:

  • American Express
  • Eftpos
  • MasterCard
  • Visa

Chef(s):
Kylie Kwong

This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.