Nowhere is the connection between Kylie Kwong's Chinese-Australian heritage and her understanding of place more clear than in her dishes fusing native ingredients with Cantonese cuisine. They're no gimmick. The tartness of Davidson's plum balances crisp-skinned duck with orange; the acid-pop of finger lime plays crucial foil to the XO sauce and lardons of pork belly tossed with a pile of split Guyra yabbies. Stir-fried native greens with shiro and ginger, meanwhile, are a gauntlet thrown down to all chefs who consider native plants only for garnish. From the natural and bespoke wines and the well-drilled waitstaff to the ochre walls and the clapping sticks, you can see Kwong's hands in it all, but they're steady hands indeed. Take a group, revel in the bigness of the portions and the generosity of spirit, and celebrate a restaurant that truly deserves the hype.
(02) 9332 3300
Accepted card types:
- American Express
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.