What's the game plan? Aided by the more switched-on members of the staff, couples can do well with half-serves and a substantial slice of the brilliant, artisanal-leaning wine list offered by the glass, but to make a real fist of it, book for four or more and go large. Dishes that connect the Cantonese cooking traditions of Kylie Kwong's heritage, the art of her professional background and the indigenous ingredients of Australia are what make this place truly unique.The bitter tang of native greens is tamed by skilful stir-frying with ginger and white soy, for instance, while muntries and finger lime almost balance the fatty riches of lardons of belly pork in a honeyed sauce. But that doesn't mean the old favourites from Billy Kwong's earliest days in its cosier Crown Street digs should be discounted − not least where the home-style eggs, fried crisp, sauced with tamari and XO, and carpeted with spring onion and red chilli, are concerned.
(02) 9332 3300
Accepted card types:
- American Express
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.