The dining experience is expertly framed by an idyllic setting at Botanic Gardens Restaurant. The quaint former tearoom in the heart of the garden, ringed by glass walls and whitewashed timber, has been modernised with blond wood tables and plush mustard-coloured low-back chairs, and the menu exercises similar poise. Paul Baker packs a lot into each dish – drawing more than 50 ingredients from the garden – yet his complex combinations show restraint, with flavours introduced with nuance rather than ostentation. Slivers of grilled squid and slices of baked pear provide lively crunch and chew with shaved pickled chestnut adding earthy notes. The bitter streak of roasted radicchio cuts through rich lamb tartare folded with lardo and quandong dukkah. Coffee-crusted kangaroo fillet is smartly teamed with smoked potato, pickled red cabbage and the vegetal bite of centella. Dishes are uniformly pretty, festooned with just-picked flowers and leaves. Garden ingredients also feature in seasonal house vermouths and beers that sit alongside an interesting list of mostly alternative wine producers. Discreet service ensures a serene scene where all is in balance, within the room and on the plate.
Phone:
(08) 8223 3526
Website:
Bookings:
Bookings recommended
Features:
BYO
Licensed
Bar
Wheelchair access
Impressive wine list
Accepted card types:
American Express
Eftpos
MasterCard
Visa
Chef(s):
Paul Baker
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
2020 Top 50 Rank – #40
Wine: ★
Gourmet Traveller’s restaurant guide gives a yearly snapshot at the best restaurants to eat at right now. The best-rated restaurants, as judged by the reviewers’ first-hand experience, form our national Top 50. The wine star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
