There would be something terribly wrong if three of Melbourne's finest (John Paul Twomey and Andrew Joy from Andrew McConnell's stable, Travis Howe from Coda and Tonka) couldn't get it right. What's thrilling about their collaboration at Carlton Wine Room is how right they've got it. The dining areas have been upgraded rather than renovated, with modish light fittings, Thonet furniture, fresh colours and new art. Service is spot on, as is Howe's wine list, a sharp snapshot of what to drink right now. Twomey's food is comforting, pretty and clean flavoured. Don't miss the amazing grilled broccoli tossed with smoked pork lardons, parmesan and crumbled, cured egg yolk. There's also a superb potato focaccia with stracciatella and pickled zucchini, and boozy rum baba topped with piped peaks of crème diplomat. This is an assured, perfectly pitched new local.
(03) 9347 2626
- Licensed (BYO Mon)
- Outdoor dining
- Private room
John Paul Twomey
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
2019 Top 100 Rank - #84
Gourmet Traveller's star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers' first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant's wine list. View our rating key here.