REVIEW
Like the Italian porn-star-turned-politician it was named after 24 years ago, Cicciolina has grown from saucy to stalwart without sacrificing its bohemian side. The wood panelling is worn, the walls adorned with nudes, the loos off the car park. But there’s appealing chemistry driven by grown-up service and a chef who has been here since day one, delivering elegant mod-Med dishes to the crowded, sometimes noisy dining room. You can’t book for dinner, but wannabe diners can wait in the civilised back bar, as those who got in earlier savour favourites like lemony blue swimmer crab soufflé on Champagne and chive velouté. Wagyu carpaccio is paired with heirloom tomatoes and mozzarella; saffron angel hair pasta is tumbled with fennel and red mullet. Taramasalata and caviar give a salty kick to roast mirror dory. Regulars and savvy food tourists love the place, and you’ll likely feel the love, too, right through to the fig tarte Tatin with violet ice-cream.
Phone:
(03) 9525 3333
Website:
Bookings:
Bookings lunch only
Features:
Licensed
Bar
Vegetarian-friendly
Outdoor dining
Private room
Impressive Wine List
Accepted card types:
American Express
Eftpos
MasterCard
Visa
Chef(s):
Virginia Redmond & Michelle Elia
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
