Restaurant Reviews

Cullen: Restaurant review

Cullen

Address

4323 Caves Rd
Wilyabrup, WA

Hours

Lunch Fri-Tue 11.30am-3pm

Prices

E $19-$23
M $34-$40
D $15-$16

REVIEW

Few Margaret River cellar doors feel as connected to the land as Cullen. It doesn't hurt that the Cullen family was one of the region's winemaking pioneers. Or that the building is a warm timber and granite site that sparks nostalgia. While matriarch Vanya Cullen oversees all things vinous (pro tip: arrive early for a pre-lunch tasting), Iain Robertson is responsible for the equally earthy menu. Smoked kangaroo with accents of wattleseed is a study in Australiana, while masterstock quail demonstrates an affinity for international flavours. Sweetcorn with dainty tempura-fried zucchini flowers cradling creamy sheep's whey is as much about confident technique as it is pristine ingredients grown in the kitchen garden. While this focus on terroir feels very Margaret River, so too does the service - which can be a little too casual at times. If only staff were as polished as the mousse made with estate honey, the epitome of Cullen's homely charms.

Phone:
(08) 9755 5656

Bookings:
Bookings recommended

Features:

  • Licensed
  • Bar
  • Vegetarian-friendly
  • Wheelchair Access
  • Outdoor dining
  • Impressive Wine List

Accepted card types:

  • American Express
  • Eftpos
  • MasterCard
  • Visa

Chef(s):
Iain Robertson

This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.