Emilia: Restaurant review

If you want to start a fight with an Italian, strike up a conversation about spaghetti Bolognese. At this charming laneway trattoria, scores can be settled over a bowl of tagliatelle ragù - the hand-cut pasta ribbons in a lusty pork and beef sauce leave no room for debate. Not that you'll want to bicker in such an inviting setting. The open kitchen lends a honey-toned glow to the white tile and terrazzo dining room, and service is led by Matteo Neviani, who welcomes regulars and first-timers with equal warmth. He's also behind the brilliant wine list, showcasing Italian varieties grown here and abroad. In the kitchen, Francesco Rota and Luca Flammia celebrate the rich culinary history of Emilia-Romagna in dishes such as salumi with puffs of gnocco fritto and that textbook tagliatelle. For something lighter, look to the snapper crudo with the salty smack of whipped bottarga. Sweeter? A millefoglie layered with lemon custard and macerated fruits.

Phone:
(03) 9670 7214

Bookings:
Bookings recommended

Chef(s):
Francesco Rota & Luca Flammia