Restaurant Reviews

Ester: Restaurant review

Ester

Address

46-52 Meagher St
Chippendale, Sydney, NSW

Hours

Lunch Fri noon-3pm, Sun noon-4pm;
Dinner Mon-Sat 6pm-10.30pm

Prices

E $16-$22
M $42-$52
D $5-$18

REVIEW

Here's the game plan: book early for a late lunch on a Saturday or Sunday. Don't drive. Call for something interesting and natural from the wine list and make the most of the wood-fired oven straight off the bat with the potato bread. Dipped hot and smoky into the cool, briny relief of the dashi, cultured cream and salmon roe, it's almost as fine a way to start as the signature blood sausage "sanga" swaddled in steamed white bread. Calamari and lardo on a stick is both playful and satisfying, while shared main courses such as the hefty rib-eye cooked on the bone and served with anchovy butter highlight Mat Lindsay's keen grasp of when to leave well enough alone. The room? It's buzzy and fun, its bare-bones feel in keeping with the semi-industrial history of the neighbourhood. The warmth in the picture comes from on-message staff. Oh, and some of the city's most original desserts. Hello, wood-fired pavlova. Essential dining.

Phone:
(02) 8068 8279

Bookings:
Bookings recommended

Features:

  • Licensed
  • Bar
  • Vegetarian-friendly
  • Wheelchair Access
  • Impressive Wine List

Accepted card types:

  • American Express
  • Eftpos
  • MasterCard
  • Visa

Chef(s):
Mat Lindsay

This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.