Restaurant Reviews

Ester: Restaurant review


46-52 Meagher St
Chippendale, Sydney, NSW


Lunch Fri noon-3pm, Sun noon-4pm;
Dinner Mon-Sat 6pm-10.30pm


E $16-$22
M $25-$45
D $6-$16


What is it about Ester that makes a booking so coveted a thing? The room is stripped back and raw, in keeping with the grittiness of the street. Service is resolutely casual. But though the space is stark, it rings with merriment, and the relaxed feel on the floor belies the commitment and smarts of the staff. Then there's Mat Lindsay's woodfired food, which (as with the natural-leaning wine list) is as much about what's left out as what's put in. Hot potato bread with cool trout roe, kefir cream and dashi jelly is the perfect contrast of texture and temperature, smoked whey sauce is all that's needed to elevate a golden potato galette to centre-plate status, and recent forays into things on sticks (lardo and calamari, lamb intercostals with mustard) have proven rewarding. Ester has quietly staked a claim at the forefront of inspired Sydney dining. And it just keeps getting better.
(02) 8068 8279
Bookings recommended
  • Licensed
  • Bar
  • Vegetarian-friendly
  • Wheelchair Access
  • Impressive Wine List
Accepted card types:
  • American Express
  • Eftpos
  • MasterCard
  • Visa
Mat Lindsay
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.