Restaurant Reviews

Ester: Restaurant review

Ester

Address

46-52 Meagher St
Chippendale, Sydney, NSW

Hours

Lunch Fri noon-3pm, Sun noon-4pm;
Dinner Mon-Sat 6pm-10.30pm

Prices

E $16-$22
M $25-$45
D $6-$16

REVIEW

What is it about Ester that makes a booking so coveted a thing? The room is stripped back and raw, in keeping with the grittiness of the street. Service is resolutely casual. But though the space is stark, it rings with merriment, and the relaxed feel on the floor belies the commitment and smarts of the staff. Then there's Mat Lindsay's woodfired food, which (as with the natural-leaning wine list) is as much about what's left out as what's put in. Hot potato bread with cool trout roe, kefir cream and dashi jelly is the perfect contrast of texture and temperature, smoked whey sauce is all that's needed to elevate a golden potato galette to centre-plate status, and recent forays into things on sticks (lardo and calamari, lamb intercostals with mustard) have proven rewarding. Ester has quietly staked a claim at the forefront of inspired Sydney dining. And it just keeps getting better.

Phone:
(02) 8068 8279

Bookings:
Bookings recommended

Features:

  • Licensed
  • Bar
  • Vegetarian-friendly
  • Wheelchair Access
  • Impressive Wine List

Accepted card types:

  • American Express
  • Eftpos
  • MasterCard
  • Visa

Chef(s):
Mat Lindsay

This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.