Sharyn Cairns
REVIEW
It may only have opened in 2020, but – much like its namesake cocktail – Gimlet is already a classic, a cinematic recreation of the Roaring Twenties that would leave even Cecil B DeMille short of breath. Under the astute direction of Andrew McConnell, the art deco dazzle is matched by a menu delivering conspicuous consumption with all the flair you could desire, from caviar to wood-grilled lobster. Yet, there’s a knack for lifting the nominally prosaic to the level of poetry, too. From evergreen bar snacks such as parmesan-filled gnocco fritto topped with bresaola to a roast chicken recalibrating the Sunday roast, it’s all about finding the thrills in familiarity (a sentiment that extends to the supper menu, which might feature crêpes Suzette flamed theatrically tableside). The tiered dining room is a fitting stage for Melbourne’s glitterati, but standout floor staff ensure everyone at Gimlet feels like a star.
ABOUT
Gimlet
European
33 Russell St, Melbourne
(03) 9277 9777
Open Lunch and dinner daily
Chef Andrew McConnell & Colin Mainds
Price guide $$
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access No
This review was written independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way. To learn more about the process, head over here.
Gourmet Traveller Annual Restaurant Guide
Our guide gives a yearly snapshot of the best restaurants to eat at right now. The best-rated restaurants, as judged by the reviewers’ first-hand experience, form our national guide.
