Nikki To
REVIEW
From its panoramic urban views to chef Mitch Orr’s smoke-kissed menu, Kiln brings a fresh perspective to Sydney’s dining landscape, proving hotel dining need not be rigid, dull, or overlooking the Harbour. Here, even stracciatella is made interesting, blanketed by velveteen dashi-braised leeks and studded with crunchy toasted hazelnuts. Start the party with some bite-sized bangers – Orr’s signature Jatz cracker, say, topped off with a thick smear of smoked butter and a curled Olasagasti anchovy, or meaty snowflake mushrooms, glazed and grilled, sitting on wasabi leaves. Refreshingly, vegetables receive star billing, backed by a seafood-heavy selection of larger plates including memorable whole southern calamari splashed with herby, citrusy salmoriglio. With DJ sets heavy on ’90s and ’00s R’n’B jams and a boisterous natty wine list courtesy of Mike Bennie, dining here feels like a proper night out (even if you don’t kick on at the bar or sunken lounges in the schmick lobby).
ABOUT
Kiln
Contemporary
Ace Hotel Sydney, 53 Foy La, Sydney
Chef Mitch Orr & Måns Engberg
Price guide $
Bookings Essential
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Sat-Sun; Dinner Tue-Sun
This review was written independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way. To learn more about the process, head over here.
Gourmet Traveller Annual Restaurant Guide
Our guide gives a yearly snapshot of the best restaurants to eat at right now. The best-rated restaurants, as judged by the reviewers’ first-hand experience, form our national guide.
