When restaurateur Chris Lucas puts his stamp on a cuisine, you can expect his take to be bold. And much like its raucous siblings Chin Chin and Hawker Hall, Kisumé is a Japanese restaurant with the volume turned up. Here, though, that energy doesn't come via music ricocheting off concrete, but rather three levels of sophisticated drinking and dining, and a sleek, sultry aesthetic of timber, velvet and leather. There's verve to the menu, too. In the basement and ground-floor restaurant, sushi masters turn out luscious otoro topped with gold leaf and caviar, alfonsino meets black truffle and uni, and pristine pieces of nigiri are artfully dabbed with ginger, shiso or yuzu. Upstairs, Kuro Kisumé is home to a Chablis bar, private rooms and the Table, offering exalted kaiseki dining for 12. Kisumé may not be the purest Japanese experience, but it promises easy enjoyment.
(03) 9671 4888
Moon Kyung Soo
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.